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Autumn Surfing
Sun May 11 18:15:12 2008

Autumn Surfing

Stop moaning, it's not that cold

Blogging has tailed off a tad lately. My fault entirely. I seem to have acquired one of those 'life' things. I'd heard about them in the past, but never really understood what it meant. Havnig an engaging, interesting rewarding job takes up quite a lot of time. On top of that, I have a new sport to play at, and insufficient time for all the old ones. Life is hard when you're having fun.

To the beach yesterday. The surf report was for 1-2 feet max. They got it right. There was bugger all at the south end, so we trudged along to North Steyne, where the occasional ripple was snickering shorewards. Other People decided to stop on the beach with a long lens and watch as I heroically did battle with the tricky conditions.

Arriving at the outer break with my hair still dry, I lay on my board and waited. The water was so clear I could see my shadow on the bottom. Allegedly, clear water is good. It makes it harded for the sharks to sneak up on you. Of course, it also lets the really big ones see you from further, so it's not all jam.

Every so often a set of 1-2 foot waves would gurgle in, and about 40 people would paddle heartily, hoping to get some traction. Rarely have such small waves attracted so much single-minded focus. Remember, it's not a drop-in if you didn't see the other surfer. How the seventh person on a six-inch wave justifies this is left as a matter for individual conscience.

Because the Sensible Person had stayed on the beach, photos were taken. They do not do me much credit. Whatever.

Bodyboarder catching a wave Technically, a wave.

Of course, there is no wave so small that I can't make a complete idiot of myself in it.

Burblechaz in a wave I've had wetter sneezes than this.

And, occasionally, a wave did break.

Burblechaz on Bodyboard catching a wave Mine mine mine don't you dare drop in.

Today, there was almost three feet. Well, more than two. Sometimes. Many, many clean breaking waves, pulling all the way to the beach. I had some of the best rides ever. Of course, the camera was absent. Hey, ho, there's always next weekend. The magic, of course, is that the water will still be warm and the sun will be shining. You wouldn't catch me doing this at Croyde in November.

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Last modified: Thu Aug 31 22:46:12 AUSEST 2006